Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
